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I use the threaded rod or bolt for my nuts, I have found it to be nearly foolproof. It has built it adjustable string spacing, the slots are already angled correctly so there is no string buzz from the nut ( my screw head nuts needed filing to stop buzzing). Just remember to measure from the middle of the thread for scale length if using a threaded rod. I use oak for my floating bridges and they work fine, lots of sustain from the metal nut and oak bridge combo. As for the tuners, when asking for used tuners at the music shop see what there cheapest new tuners are first. The shop I go to wanted $2.00 each for used cheap tuners, and $12.00 for a new set of 6 econo tuners, I got the new ones. Good luck, have fun building, then playing.
I like the threaded rod too, but broke about 3 scroll saw blades trying to cut it. Is there a better way?
MichaelS said:I use the threaded rod or bolt for my nuts, I have found it to be nearly foolproof. It has built it adjustable string spacing, the slots are already angled correctly so there is no string buzz from the nut ( my screw head nuts needed filing to stop buzzing). Just remember to measure from the middle of the thread for scale length if using a threaded rod. I use oak for my floating bridges and they work fine, lots of sustain from the metal nut and oak bridge combo. As for the tuners, when asking for used tuners at the music shop see what there cheapest new tuners are first. The shop I go to wanted $2.00 each for used cheap tuners, and $12.00 for a new set of 6 econo tuners, I got the new ones. Good luck, have fun building, then playing.
I like the threaded rod too, but broke about 3 scroll saw blades trying to cut it. Is there a better way?
MichaelS said:I use the threaded rod or bolt for my nuts, I have found it to be nearly foolproof. It has built it adjustable string spacing, the slots are already angled correctly so there is no string buzz from the nut ( my screw head nuts needed filing to stop buzzing). Just remember to measure from the middle of the thread for scale length if using a threaded rod. I use oak for my floating bridges and they work fine, lots of sustain from the metal nut and oak bridge combo. As for the tuners, when asking for used tuners at the music shop see what there cheapest new tuners are first. The shop I go to wanted $2.00 each for used cheap tuners, and $12.00 for a new set of 6 econo tuners, I got the new ones. Good luck, have fun building, then playing.
You can do a few different things, but the best thing to do is set the peg head at 5/8" or 3/4" ... then buy tuner to fit. BUT you can make it fit the tuners you may already have.
Nut .. low as possible with out any fret buzz.
Here is what I do.
- total nut height is around 3/16"
- nut slot is same depth as frets .... ( easy to use same saw, and cut the nut slot then the fret slots)
- I only have around 1/8" or just a bit more above the fretboard, then cut string grooves to about 1 bizniz card thickness.
- Oak will work ... actually nice woody tone but not much sustain.
- small bolt probably better option
- IMHO Bone is best ( I use it exclusively)
Matt
my first cbg was finished just now and then i realized the nut and saddle were way too high. gotta take em down, way down.
Just get a hack saw, put the rod in a vise and cut it off. I use a file to clean up the ends, and I soften the edges of the threads a little too, with the file. What do you use to make the grove in the neck for the rod/nut? I've been hand filing mine but it takes a long time.
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