I have been searching for a good way to thin down the headstock on a CBG I plan on building in the near future but have not found a good example of what I should do.
The neck and headstock will be built out of 1x so without any shaping the headstock will be 3/4" thick. I am going to put a scarf joint on the neck/headstock at about 15 degrees and then glue on "wings" to get the width I want.
What will be the best way to thin down the headstock an 1/8 of an inch or so? should I take it off the front side, back side, or both? Should I sand it off or use a saw? I'm definitely a little confused. I have searched for pictures or video (being able to see it would help me out) but have had a hard time finding anything.
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hey saw marks can be a good thing in some cases lol .
Nice drawing and easy to understand
This doesn't answer your question exactly, but offers two alternatives. You can:
1) predrill the string post location (on top side) to the depth you would normally thin the top. Use a 1/2" or so fostner bit to create a flat bottom. Finish for the tuner as you normally would. You end up with a "pocket" that is relatively easy to work with.
or 2) fashion your neck in the fashion of a classical guitar and you won't have to thin the top at all. On 2,3 and 4 string CBGs you can get away with a single slot in the middle of the headstock.
Both methods are functional and can look good.
In regards to the picture Reeds Taylor posted.. I'm going to be put a 15 degree scarf joint on the neck/headstock so I will have plenty of angle to get good pressure on the nut. I don't like the look of that style headstock anyway, which is why I'm going the scarf joint route.
My tuners don't quite go through and screw together in a 3/4" headstock. That is why I needed to thin the thing down a bit. All is well now and I believe I have it figured out.
Thanks again Y'all.
I get my 1x2's at Lowes or Home Depot. In some bins underneath this wood is some 1/2" x 2 wood. I cut my 12 degree angle on both of these and now have a 1/2 thick peg head.
quick and the dirty for me is I have just started doing scarf joints myself. I have used probally all of the methods mentioned above but in the sake of not aggravating myself I have found that using two diffrent boards one being standard 1x for the neck then i cut my scarf and i have another board which is standard purchace at lowes not sure of the exact dimensions but it the perfect thickness already and wide enough you dont need wings probally a 5/8 x 2 do the reverse scarf on this piece. I do it all on my table saw with good results. glue them together, shape head stock , top with fret board and you are off and running.. Welcome to the nation build lots and play often....
the second board is a 1/2 x 2 1/2 not a 5/8 x 2
I love reading ya'lls methods here...
I have no tools, and poor wood working skills, so to inlet for the box lid, I use the method illustrated by Reeds Taylor, but I have no chisels yet, so I shove a flathead screwdriver in my cuts and wiggle it back and forth till the piece breaks loose and pops out, then clean it up with a file and sandpaper.
For thinning down the backside of my neck, I pop out the old Ka-Bar Komodo folder and shave off slivers till it looks right, then clean it up with a file and sandpaper.
Redneck ways...I gotta get me some tools!
a nice tool that works well and also works well for shaping necks , one that i enjoy using . Because i come from a metal fabricating background i happened to have it in my shop. since i had no wood working tools at the time. A 4 1/2 angle grinder. put a nice 80 grit flap disk on it. not the tapered kind but the boxy kind and you can shave and shape all day long with it. its quite handy. and you can buy a cheapy at harbor freight for like 10 or 12 bucks. with the online cuepon.
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