Hi C.B.N fiends, I'n a new boy , dont know my way around yet but I have a question, I'm a little confused about the fitting of the neck to the C,box, if I want to run the neck through the box, can the neck touch the underside of the box or should there be a space between, I'm thinking there might be a better sound if the the "face" is not in contact with the neck like a classic acoustic, or am I being too fussy? Thanks, Martin.
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Sounds wise.
have to agree with john,once you seal them,hard to change anything,sometimes even the ones you think are great develop annoying characteristics,after you,ve lived with it a while maybe,but not straight up i feel
i've changed a few boxes by just removing the box from the neck - no big deal have loads of spare boxes, but the necks are recycleable! my lids are screwed to the neck, not glued, so any alterations and repairs can be made easily (-:
When you leave space between the top and the neck doesn't string tension on the bridge want to crush the top down?
My bridge has a bigger"foot" so spreading the tension over a bigger area, seems to sound good too, to me anyway!
@Duke - yes the string tension on the bridge pushes, not crushes, down on the lid, but it will be well supported by the neck if it is braced to the bottom of the box, all nice and rigid, greater sustain! (-:
Sorry - but I need clarification (and that's a big word this early) - would it work if you leave about and inch of neck to support the bridge but recess the rest of the neck to leave a freely vibrating lid?
sounds OK. I'm in the start of some tryouts myself, so I have made 2 boxes out of 1/4" ply to run tryouts; I want to build a "cow horn" shape in the box to allow more sound "space", also on the test list is a pet food resonator which will need also space for fitting.I had also some questions & the best advice I received was"try it" Good luck.
I have built with the neck attached to the lid and spaced off and they do produce different sound. With fretted instruments you want neck to box angle to get the strings off the box this is a different problem. If the top isn't real wood I don't think it maters you just want the whole thing solid so it produces a clean sound, reso are another problem.
Here's the monkey wrench, the sound board is now joined to the box when built like this and with a stick neck set off the top it has a real wood guitar sound its small but they all are. This guitar is a 6 string so its over built and has a very solid sound not loud but is built to be in front of a Mic. The more ways you build the more sounds you'll hear.
And just to add to the confusion...er, I mean OPTIONS:
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/easy-to-build-cigar-box-...
Self contained Nut-to-bridge unit mounted Dulcimer-style on top of the soundboard! Although I do a lot of neck-through designs where the neck doesn't touch the soundboard, My first true success as a builder was based on the Uncle Crow design, and it was deceptively loud for its size in Acoustic mode.
-Or, as wiser posters have noted previously-There Are No Rules. Try one of everything and see what you prefer.
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