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Oh no, not the fret/fingerboard. When I finish the neck, I will go in [roughly] this order
1. laminate the neck, make scarf, cut side profile, apply finger/fretboard, etc. Basic shape
2. Plane the sides and shape the neck down with a rounded back. Done with spokeshave. Apply any wings at this point. MUST be done after basic planing and shaping as the wings get in the way.
3. Tape off the top side of the finger/fretboard with painters tape. Do anything else I need to the neck before finishing.
4. Coat the neck with 6-10 thick coats of clear [liquid form] as mentioned above. Spray the last coats as mentioned.
5. Tape off, sand the finger/fretboard down to the flatness/radius I want. Apply tung or linseed oil to the surface.
6. Fret if desired.
The one area that doesn't get clear is the wood inside the box. I can hold the neck there when coating ;-).
-WY
Dave Onastik said:Wes; do you coat the entire neck including frets?
Wes Yates said:In that case Fitz, if you want a 'quick coat', I use Deft brand Clear Wood Finish in the aerosol can. I probably wouldn't use much tho. It does contain some really nasty solvents that might dissolve the ink on the paper. Test on the inside lid of the box first.
On that note, I use the same in the canned liquid form to do necks. Once I get the neck cut down and sanded, I will layer on with the liquid to about 6-10 thick coats (dry time of 4-6 hrs in between coats), sand down with 220 - 400 grit sandpaper until all the 'shine' is off and the surface is leveled down, then spray the sucker with 2-3 coats if the aerosol (drying in between). Makes a smooth as glass shine. I don't even need to buff it down.
-Wes
Any idea what tung oil might do to the paper on a partially papered box, or the rough box wood? I like the feel of tung oil but the wood is always very well sanded. I guess I could sand box a fair amount without mangling the paper using tape and good aim. I figure I'll ask instead of trying it on the only boxes I have and finding out the hard way it was a bad idea.
Any idea what tung oil might do to the paper on a partially papered box, or the rough box wood? I like the feel of tung oil but the wood is always very well sanded. I guess I could sand box a fair amount without mangling the paper using tape and good aim. I figure I'll ask instead of trying it on the only boxes I have and finding out the hard way it was a bad idea.
On a somewhat over the top build I did for my father, I put 3 coats of polyurethane over the entire box. I came out very nice in my opinion.
It does cause the paper hinge to become too brittle to open/close more then a few times. Not an issue since I screwed it shut anyways.
wow, nice build... did you do the inlay?
MikeBoy said:
On a somewhat over the top build I did for my father, I put 3 coats of polyurethane over the entire box. I came out very nice in my opinion.
It does cause the paper hinge to become too brittle to open/close more then a few times. Not an issue since I screwed it shut anyways.
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